Bear Cave Management Plan
Bear Cave Management Plan
Enacted May 1, 2002 (Revised
January 10, 2004)
NOTE: Bear Cave is Now Closed
October 15 - April 15
Special Note: Bear Cave Closed in 2009 due to White Nose Syndrome
Introduction
Bear Cave is a network maze cave located in Derry Township,
Westmoreland County. At 8,500+ feet of mapped passage
it is currently the fourth longest mapped cave in Pennsylvania.
Accounts of the cave date back to
1839. The cave has appeared in hundreds of
newspaper articles from that time to the
present. Visitors have traveled by foot, horseback, canal
boat, train and automobile to the Village of Hillside to visit
the cave.
A logbook started by the previous owner, Albert Smith, shows several
thousand visitors per year. These visitors
are members of summer camp groups, organized caving
clubs or grottos, scout troops and individuals with
an interest in nature. Visitors are primarily from Allegheny, Cambria,
Somerset and Westmoreland counties in Pennsylvania,
with out-of-state visitors coming primarily from Ohio.
However, the cave has had visitors from as far away as
Texas and Colorado, and even from France.
Surface land surveys as early as the mid-1800s indicated the
bounds of the network maze cave were known to be within
a few hundred feet of its five entrances. When the 400-acre
tract containing the cave was subdivided in the 1860s,
the known bounds of the cave were placed within one
five-acre parcel.
Bear Cave has always been privately owned. Tom and Kim
Metzgar purchased Bear Cave in May of 2001 from the
estate of Albert Smith, Kim’s grandfather. The purchase included
153 other acres of land in two separate parcels, in addition
to the 5-acre Bear Cave tract. The Metzgars have been
caring for the tract for more than 20 years, cleaning litter
from the cave, and
cleaning up up spray paint damage from the entrance and inside
the cave. They have maintained the property lines around
the cave and posted it as "no trespassing or hunting," but
caving "by permission only."
This management plan will spell out details of ownership and
management in order to protect and preserve this natural resource,
while allowing visitation from properly-equipped groups
and individuals.
Ownership
The Bear Cave and surrounding area has had not
just one or two fascinating owners, but a
clutch of charismatic characters ranging
from a pre-Civil War free black landowner, George
Butler; a Declaration of Independence signer, James Wilson;
an ironmaster, militia colonel, and state legislator, Jacob
D. Mathiot; a shopkeeper, postmaster, and canal weighmaster,
George Mulholland; an attorney, Richard D. McCabe;
an Allegheny County surveyor and land developer, E.
H. Heastings; and a boy’s school principal, J.B.D. Meeds.
The purchase on May 6, 1832, by George Mulholland Jr. and
Jacob D. Mathiot marked the first time the property was owned
by someone actually living in the area. It was during the
1830s that the first written accounts of Bear Cave began appearing
in local newspapers. Mathiot built and owned one of
the earliest iron furnaces in the county, Ross Furnace, on Tubmill
Creek in Fairfield Township. Mulholland was Blairsville’s postmaster and a
canal warehouse and store owner.
Attorney Richard D. McCabe later gained a third share of the
property from Mullholland and Mathiot, both of whom required
considerable assistance to manage their extensive holdings.
As McCabe’s bill for his legal services mounted, his
stake in Mathiot’s and Mulholland’s property increased to
a one-third share, since he apparently elected to be paid in
land and not cash. Nothing found in the papers of any of these
men indicate their awareness of the cave.
One man did know the cave, explored it, and, actually owned
it and the land just upstream from it -- and at the same
time Mathiot, Mulholland and McCabe did. George Butler,
a pre-Civil War free black man, came into possession of
248 acres of the John Hannum/Bear Cave parcel via settlers’ rights, and lived
in a place not far from the cave. He’s even
mentioned in an article appearing Sept. 21, 1842, in the Pittsburgh Christian Advocate, by
Hiram Gilmore.
The group of six in Gilmore’s party used a map drawn by a Greensburg group three years earlier, Gilmore
noting that his group "carried a
diagram with us ... (and was) guided by a
mulatto living nearby....’’ Butler and his wife, Mary remain enigmatic
characters about whom little was recorded. They settled
near the cave in the fall of 1834 and were listed in the
tax rolls, where it was noted they had moved to Derry Township
from nearby Unity. No record is found of the Butlers once
they sold the parcel. They appear to have been the
only black family in the area. George Butler established settler’s
rights while living on the land, so when E.H. Heastings, a
land developer and one-time Allegheny County surveyor, purchased
the property from Mulholland, Mathiot and McCabe,
he also had to buy Butler’s deed.
Heastings owned the parcel for 10
years, from 1843 to 1853, attempting to
develop two tracts totaling 800 acres and
sell off lots to wealthy Pittsburgh residents. Though Allegheny
County’s surveyor at the time, Heastings’ subdivisions conflicted
with some of the adjoining parcels, creating a
tangle of lines and titles not yet settled 150 years later.
James B.D. Meeds, principal of a
boys’ school in Pittsburgh, purchased the
lot containing Bear Cave. In 1866, he divided
off about five acres overlying the cave, then sold off
100 acres surrounding this small cave tract to Ernest Mershalt,
or Mersolt, another popular variation of his surname. The
five acre tract overlying the cave, along with other
nearby Meeds parcels remained in the Meeds family until
Westmoreland County claimed them from the estate of James’
son, Harrison, for unpaid real estate taxes from 1939 to
1950.
In 1965, Albert Smith, who had lived in the area since 1919,
obtained a deed to the five acre parcel overlying the Bear
Cave via quiet title from the Westmoreland County Commissioners,
and a subsequent deed from the Meeds heirs
in 1972. Smith visited the cave after his family moved to
the area, and spent much of his free time exploring, writing about,
and studying the ridge and Bear Cave. Albert Smith
owned the five acre Bear Cave parcel until his death in
1992. His widow Marion and son entered into an agreement
of sale for the cave with Smith’s granddaughter, Kim
Opatka-Metzgar and her husband Tom, which was subsequently carried
out in May of 2001.
History
The Great Bear Cave needs no introduction even to the beginning
Western Pennsylvania caver. This Westmoreland County
natural wonder is an extremely popular recreation spot.
At one time, before adjoining property containing the also
popular Con Cave was closed, register sheets reveal that
Bear and Con caves received as many as 5,000 visitors annually.
The area remains relatively undisturbed, and no fancy color
brochures stick out of wall pockets at turnpike stops trying
to entice tourists to the cave. Bear Cave, typical of wild
caves, is advertised primarily by word of mouth. It is the
only non-commercialized cave located on some Pennsylvania road
maps. Until recently, most highway maps were published
by gasoline companies and given away to their customers
for free. Points of interest, along with the company’s gas
stations, were printed prominently on the maps, boosting
tourism as well as gas sales. These gasoline company highway
maps are now collectors’ items. The official Pennsylvania
Department of Transportation Highway maps no
longer show the cave.
Nearly all of the cave
descriptions in the modern caving literature
may be classified in the Automobile Era. Perhaps the
most widely-read Bear Cave material is Vic Schmidt’s description
(with fold-out map) published in William B. White’s
1976 Caves of Western
Pennsylvania.
The earliest published description is from a Greensburg newspaper, The Pennsylvania Argus of
Friday, October 4, 1839. A lengthy
description appeared along with a 9-3/4 by
4-3/16 inch map showing about 2250 feet of passageways and
some internal details, such as the stream .owing through
the cave and some large rocks in the Sand Room or Dunn’s
Room.
The early cartographer, Frederick J. Cope, was a Greensburg newspaper publisher and printer who later became a wealthy livestock breeder. Cope wrote a number of
agricultural articles and was obviously
well-read.
Cope was part of a
Greensburg-based cultural organization called
the Westmoreland Lyceum, which conducted the
first documented amateur scientific study in the cave in
1839. Lyceum membership was drawn principally from the
upper economic and social classes of white males of English,
German, and Scots-Irish descent. Bear Cave trip reports
do not mention females until a generation later, after the
war between the states. Lower economic and social class
cavers probably did not write accounts of their trips into
the cave, although almost certainly lumbermen, hunters, and
curious local residents visited Bear Cave prior to 1839.
The Westmoreland Lyceum attempted an objective and scientific
description of the cave written by Norman McLeod, a
Reformed Presbyterian minister, and president of the Lyceum’s Philosophical
Committee.
Numerous other articles appear after 1839. Tom and Kim Metzgar
will include them in a complete Bear Cave history book.
The earliest map which locates the Bear Cave
entrance dates from 1857. The
Map of Westmoreland County, Pennsylvania, was
produced by D.J. Lake and N.S. Ames, and published
by William J. Barker in Hector, N.Y. Shortly after the
Civil War, S.N. and D.G. Beers produced their Atlas of Westmoreland County, Pennsylvania,
published in 1867. Dozens of topographic,
geologic, and road maps have shown the cave
since that time.
Many early cave visitors took
souvenirs in the form of formations and
carved their names near the entrance and at some
points in the cave. While modern-day cavers cringe at
this type of vandalism, this occurred long before conservation ethics
envisioned what would happen if every visitor defaced
the object of his interest over a period of many decades.
Description
The cave’s entrances are in the updip end of the Loyalhanna
Limestone in Bear Cave Hollow, at 1750 feet elevation. Two
entrances carry the surface stream underground and
through the cave system, emerging in the next hollow to
the north, Shirey Run Hollow. The main stream picks up several
small tributaries throughout the cave system. Most tributaries
enter through cracks and crevices in the joint-controlled passageways.
The cave offers several types of passages, including walking passage, crawlways and those which can be reached by chimneying. While the entrance section may make
the cave seem "easy" for
beginners, cavers must be familiar with navigation
techniques in the network maze passageways (which DO NOT include
marking on the walls), wear proper footwear,
and carry enough light sources to safely explore this
feature.
The currently-known extent of Bear Cave is about 650 feet
north of the entrance. The lowest point in the cave is 72 feet
below datum, i.e., the starting point at the beginning of the
cave survey (at the entrance to the Appian Way).
Mapping
No other Pennsylvania cave has had more attempts at charting
its passages than Bear Cave. They include the 1839
Cope map, a 1934 effort by a trio from Blairsville and Greensburg,
a 1936 map prepared by a party of Pittsburghers, the
well-known 1960 Pittsburgh Grotto map (which has
three different versions) and the 1993 map by York and Loyalhanna
grottos.
In 1960 cartographer Vic Schmidt of Pittsburgh Grotto reported
the cave length at 3,700 feet. The 1993 map length totals
more than twice that distance. Bear Cave’s 8,500 feet places
it as Pennsylvania’s fourth-longest mapped cave. The
1960 surveyors calculated that the cave ended about 650
feet north of the entrance. The 1993 survey confirmed that
linear distance between the entrance and the cave’s end.
The 1960 map accurately shows Bear Cave’s passageways in
relationship to each other. However, the standards of
cave cartography in the 1950s and 1960s did not require the
passage detail expected of modern cave maps. Most mid-century
cave mappers did not take instrument readings into
or measure dead-end side passages — these were customarily just
sketched.
The 1993 map is available to members of the National
Speleological Society who purchase
Mid-Appalachian Region Bulletin 20, Caves
of Westmoreland County, Pa. A color
version of this map is planned for the Bear
Cave history book. This map is © copyright
by the cartographer J.R. Reich, Jr., and by
law cannot be reproduced or distributed in any published
or electronic format without written consent of the copyright
holder. It is permissible for cavers to make one copy
of the map for personal use in the cave, so as not to ruin
the copy which came from MAR 20.
Geology
Bear Cave is formed in the Loyalhanna Limestone of Mississippian
Age, which is about 300 million years old. The limestone in the vicinity of the cave is about 65
feet thick. Loyalhanna Limestone might be
called a limey sandstone, or a sandy
limestone, depending upon where it is sampled. Typically,
it consists of about 50 percent silicates in the form
of sand grains, cemented by calcite. The rock is highly cross-bedded,
and weathers to form the anticline’s distinctive ridges
of finer-grained, darker material.
Chestnut Ridge coincides with a
prominent anticline. Its crest is eroded
down into strata much older than those exposed
in the flanking synclines. The ridge rises about 1500
feet above the lowlands, with Bear Cave’s entrance lying
slightly less than halfway up the ridge. Exposed on the flanks
and top of Chestnut Ridge, the Loyalhanna Limestone dips
underneath the overlying strata so that it is not found near
the surface at the foot of the ridge.
Though western Pennsylvania is not characterized by karst
topography, Bear Cave offers an excellent example of
the sometimes-complex surface and subsurface drainage patterns
on Chestnut Ridge.
Water collected in the hollow
upstream from the cave flows on the
surface, then plunges into the entrances. There, it zigzags
through joints in the limestone along the dip and the strike,
to a point 650 feet from the entrances, where it continues through
tight crevices underneath a spur. It resurges in Shirey
Run about 3000 feet to the north and 350 feet lower in
elevation from the Bear Cave entrances.
The cave is a network maze in which the insurging surface stream has removed the primary fill which occurs
in zones along joints in the limestone.
This primary fill consists of sand grains
and clay. The sand is no longer cemented together
due to the removal of the calcite bonding by percolating water.
Even where flowing water has not removed the primary fill,
humans can excavate it to create passageways which soon
become indistinguishable from those formed naturally.
Future studies are needed to fully
understand the relationships between the
cavernous Loyalhanna Limestone and the underlying
Burgoon Sandstone, which, like the Loyalhanna, contains
many springs where it is exposed on the Chestnut Ridge.
Hydrology
Michael Guzo, while an undergraduate student at
St. Francis College, Loretto, undertook a
water quality assessment and stream tracing
project as part of a senior internship with Loyalhanna
Grotto.
The project had two goals: first, to sample water quality of the suspected resurgence of the Bear Cave
stream, and more importantly, to determine
the actual resurgence of the stream. This
was found to be in Shirey Run, the next hollow to
the north of the cave. The location of the stream resurgence had
been the subject of speculation since the 1800s, with
early newspaper reports noting the water came out in the
Conemaugh River.
The surface and subsurface streams of Bear Cave Hollow and
Shirey Run are in the process of being elevated to exceptional
value streams, and are also part of the Blairsville and
Torrance public water supplies. Visitors should be aware
of the pristine condition of these streams and act accordingly
so as not to degrade water quality.
Biology
Because of its extensive size, wide variety of passageways, and the streams flowing into and through it, Bear Cave offers the most diverse biological habitat of
any known Westmoreland County cave.
Surprisingly, a literature search turned up
no formal biological studies.
Fauna include planaria,
isopods (sow bugs), oligochaetes (earthworms), decapods (crayfish), and arachnids (spiders).
Of
the insect orders, Collembela (springtails), Ortophtera (cave
and camel crickets), Coleoptera (beetles), Diptera (flies)
and Lepidoptera (moths)
are most common.
Amphibians observed include Eurycea
bislineata (northern two-lined
salamanders), Eurycea longicauda (longtailed salamanders), Plethodon
glutinosus (slimy salamanders), Desmongnathus
fuscus (northern dusky salamanders), Desmongnathus monticola (Appalachian
seal salamanders), and Rana
palustris (pickeral frogs).
Woodrats and several species of mice thrive near the entrances.
While not known as a major bat hibernaculum, species observed
include Eptesicus fuscus,
big brown bat; Pipistrellus subflavus, eastern
pipistrelle; Myotis lucifugus, little brown bat.
Paleontology
With its prominent entrances and long history of human exploration,
Bear Cave certainly offers an excellent opportunity for
scientific investigations into its past.
During the 1990s mapping efforts, Tom Metzgar observed an
opossum jawbone, probably of recent age, in the main stream
only about 150 feet from the entrance. While searching for
insects, he also noted numerous teeth of assorted sizes
and levels of abrasion scattered in all portions of the stream
gravel. He did not attempt to collect any of them, preferring
to leave them for future experts to identify.
The owners encourage further study of the paleontology, but
ask to be notified in writing with requests for study. Absolutely no
digging in the cave of any kind can be done without the
consent of the owners and without the proper permits.
Research
The owners encourage research to explore the preserve’s historical, biological, geological, hydrological,
paleontological and archaeological
potential. Researchers who desire access to
the cave should submit a brief, written synopsis of
their project along with their qualifications to the owners for
consideration. Researchers are required to submit a preliminary
report documenting project progress no later than
30 days after the project has been completed, and a final
report within one year. A schedule of reports for longer-term projects
can be established if necessary. The owners reserve
the right to comment upon published papers which might
reveal sensitive information, and specifically prohibit publishing
reports on the internet without their approval.
News/Publication Policy
The owners seek to publicize caves only for education of the
public about caves and karst resources; for published scientific
studies in cave-related publications, and, depending on
the sensitivity of the material, on the world wide web.
Specific cave location information should
not be released on
the internet or to the general public, or published in any written
form without written permission of the owners. Trips should
not be advertised in the newspaper, on the radio or on
the internet or in any way where the information is generally available
to the public. Trips can be advertised in local caving
club newsletters or newsletters of similar organizations which
meet access requirements. In publicity concerning the
cave it is okay to note its county and proximity to other
geographic features, such as it "is on private property within
the Forbes State Forest in Derry Township."
In the event of a search or rescue
at the cave the owners wish to minimize
publicity of the location, while providing the media
with necessary information on the incident.
The management plan will be
available for publication in these mediums
and can be published on the world wide web (with
contact information), provided no sensitive material is released
in this manner.
Surface Management
Surface management applies to all of the 158 acres owned by
the Metzgars. The cave (and property) is open from dawn to
dusk. Visitors MUST be out of the parking area by dusk. Camping in or around the cave entrance or on any of
the Metzgar property is prohibited. There are no exceptions. Collection
of firewood and campfires are prohibited.
There are no sanitary facilities on the property. All trash and waste from both the surface and underground
must be packed out.
There is one designated parking area. Vehicle parking shall
be in the Bear Cave parking lot and visitors must sign in.
Please use only this area. If a visitor does not use this area
or sign in, and they have an equipment malfunction or an
injury, there will be no way of knowing they are on the property.
ATVs, dirt bikes and snowmobiles are not permitted on the property.
It is highly suggested that visitors stay on the path from the parking area to the cave entrance in order to
minimize long-term impact. The upper third
of the trail to the cave will be relocated,
in conjunction with the Forbes State Forest.
Property lines are blazed and
marked, and private and public lands will
be noted on a trail map, once one is developed.
Visitors should be cognizant of this. Additionally, because
some of the property lines are cleared, there is potential
for some hiking trails along these boundaries.
Part of the Cal Smith property adjoins the Blairsville
Reservoir. This is a public water supply
which is fenced in. Trail development will NOT go past the reservoir and visitors will be asked to follow marked trails and avoid
going on unmarked roads and paths.
Collection of flora and fauna, rocks, minerals, fossils and soils is prohibited. The owners will entertain
requests for scientific purposes only and must be present when any collection is made.
Illegal drugs, drug paraphernalia, alcohol and alcoholic beverage
containers are not allowed on the property.
No hunting, trapping or firearms on the property.
Please keep noise to a minimum and be discreet in changing clothes.
Visitors should not dam the stream at the cave’s entrance or cut down live trees.
Access Policy
This policy has been developed in response to previous abuses
of the cave and surrounding area. Bear Cave is open only
to people who receive permission from the owners, park
in the designated area, sign in, hike to the cave on foot along
designated trails, and use the proper gear.
Each person should have
a minimum of three sources of light,
a cave pack with extra batteries and bulbs, gloves, helmet, lug-soled
boots and warm clothing. At least two of the light sources
must be helmet-mounted. Note that due to various fungus and mold colonies
established by people not wearing gloves, the glove requirement is now mandatory.
There is absolutely NO
COMMERCIAL ACTIVITY permitted. Organized groups MUST fill out a trip
request and have a written permit from
the owners. Only approved groups are permitted
to lead trips into the cave, and each
member of the group must have the
equipment stated above. Trip leaders should
be familiar with Caving Basics, the
book published by the National
Speleological Society (NSS). Organized groups
should also provide a certificate of insurance with
their trip request form and a copy of their non-profit letter
of determination from the Internal Revenue Service (IRS).
Caving clubs which are affiliated with the National
Speleological Society (NSS) DO
NOT have to fill out the group permit application, but should notify the owners
by e-mail or telephone of their planned
trip date.
All Scout troops MUST send in a copy of their tour
permit, as required by the Scout
caving policy developed in conjunction with
the National Speleological Society. This is in addition to the Bear Cave
group tour permit application.
Groups or Scout troops found to be on the property without proper permission will be given one warning. If
these groups do not then comply with the
owner’s management plan, or if a group is
found to be charging a fee to visit the property,
the owners will prosecute for trespass. If a visitor to the
cave knows of someone charging a fee to "guide" people to
the cave, that person can report the "guide" to the owners at
724-325-2985 or at kimmakc@aol.com.
Group size is now limited to 12 in one group per trip. Splitting a church or camp group of 24 into two “groups” of 12 does not count.
• No carbide dumps in the cave.
If you pack it in, pack it out.
• The cave is not a restroom. Do not use it as one.
• The property is open from dawn to dusk. The owners patrol
it regularly. Violators will be considered trespassers and
prosecuted as such.
Anyone marking the cave or removing anything but litter and
their own possessions from the cave will be subject to prosecution.
• Bats hibernate from October 15 to April 15 (approximate dates). The cave is now closed to all groups during this time period, as is the Bear Cave parking lot.
• Visitors should follow the credo of the National Speleological Society: "Take nothing but pictures, leave
nothing but footprints, kill nothing but
time."
Group/Scout Permits
Organized groups wishing to visit the cave are asked to submit
a permit application at least
three weeks before trip dates.
There will be NO
FEE charged for permits. The permit
will be good for the date inscribed on it.
The permit must be displayed on the
dashboard of the vehicle while in the parking area.
The owners may undertake spot inspections of groups visiting
the cave to make sure they are properly equipped and
that each member of the group has a functioning light source.
Liability Disclaimer
This policy will be posted at the Bear Cave parking lot and
made available by e-mail and posted on the internet. Persons
reading this policy and leading trips to Bear Cave should
understand that exploring underground holes, caves, crevices
and passageways can be inherently dangerous and those
persons assume all risks, known and unknown, which may
arise from such exploration. Any and all losses, claims or
liabilities which visitors or their heirs may have for any and
all losses and damage which may occur to visitors or their
property while engaged in such exploration are hereby waived
and the owners are released and held harmless from such
claims or liabilities.
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